The province of Cebu is said to be the Gateway to a Thousand Journeys. And right in the center of this so-called gateway is the Queen City of the South, Cebu City. And the title is not without weight; Cebu City is the oldest city in the Philippines and the first capital of the country. This is where the Spaniards first settled after landing at the nearby Mactan Island, making it the fount of Christianity in the Far East.
The whole of Cebu—its mainland and 167 islands—is divided into nine cities and forty four municipalities; thirteen of these, including Cebu City, are consolidated as Metro Cebu. With a combined population of almost three million people, it is the second most populous area in the country.
Cebu City and the whole of Cebu is one of the most visited tourist regions in the country. The city and the countryside is teeming with historic colonial architecture, its coastlines are replete with fine white sand beaches, and its interior can surprise the curious traveler with waterfalls, canyons, and mountains to discover. And besides that, they pride themselves for having the best roasted pig or lechon in the whole archipelago.
A trip to Cebu can be overwhelming for the first time visitor. The city itself already presents a lot of places to see, but extend your horizon further, and you’d find a lot more areas to explore on far-off towns and islands. A travel guide can definitely help in planning the perfect Cebu trip for you.
Ever since I started traveling to Cebu, I’ve always wondered where that flagstone-wall with hypnotic concentric circular portals are in Cebu. I knew the name, Tops Lookout Cebu or simply Tops Cebu, but I always seem to miss it whenever I land at the Queen City of the South.
I’ve been to Cebu and Mactan’s tourist spots, even going so far as Camotes Island and the Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary, but Tops Cebu seems to be eluding me. Just where the heck is it?! And on this last trip to Cebu with fellow drinkers from Team RH, I finally found out where.
When in Cebu, eat lechon. That’s our group motto when we headed over to the Queen City of the South on an impulse weekend trip. And eat lechon we did. If Premiere Citi Suites Cebu offered it for breakfast, we’d have roasted pig for breakfast. But alas, they do not, so we had to confine our pig out sessions during lunchtimes.
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CEBU’S ORIGINAL LECHON BELLY ~ WHOLE, FROM PHP2,200.00 |
On our last day in the city, we visited Cebu’s Original Lechon Belly. I’ve tried one of Lechon Belly’s Manila branches before and found it to be supremely good; better than most commercial roasted pigs I’ve tried elsewhere. We were told then that they actually fly these pork bellies all the way from Cebu to Manila. And that made me curious if those they sell in Cebu actually tastes like those they hawk in Manila. Or more importantly, is it actually better?
CEBU | Temple of Leah ~ a Grand Declaration of Undying Love
[ARCHITECTURE] Monday, September 25, 2017I’ve been hearing a lot about a certain temple in Cebu which many dub as the Taj Mahal of the Philippines. While I’m not much for comparing places we have in the Philippines with those abroad, but for many, that’s usually the easiest and not to mention, the catchiest way to promote a place. And so it was that on our last day of our weekend in Cebu, we decided to add at least a single tourist spot on our itinerary, the famed Temple of Leah.
► CHECK OUT: CEBU TRAVEL GUIDE
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THE MOUNTAINOUS AREA OF BARANGAY BUSAY |
Located on the hills of Barangay Busay, where the equally popular Tops Cebu and Sirao Garden is located, the graceful temple rose from the ground in 2012. Fairly recent, but judging from the number of visitors we have to dodge that weekend, its popularity with both local and foreign tourists, seemed to suggest otherwise.
► TO HELP YOU GET STARTED, HERE’S A LIST OF TOP THINGS TO DO IN CEBU BY GUIDE TO THE PHILIPPINES
CEBU | House of Lechon, Carcar’s Famous Lechon in Cebu City
[FOOD TRIP] Saturday, September 23, 2017Visiting tourist spots in Cebu City wasn’t really on our itinerary. What’s in it though are the numerous lechon restaurants that the city is known for. I know, we only have to go to La Loma in Manila to enjoy this sinful porky treat, but since it’s been years since we last visited Cebu, we just have to try some of its newer pig-out places.
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CEBU’S HOUSE OF LECHON |
Coming straight from our breakfast at the Premiere Citi Suites Hotel, the first one we went to for lunch is Cebu’s House of Lechon, a restaurant specializing in Carcar’s version of roasted pigs. Carcar is a city about an hour away from Cebu City and it can compete, and even better, Cebu’s very best. I’ve tried CnT Lechon, Zubuchon (for purists, I know, I know), and Cebu’s Original Lechon Belly, but honestly, I’ve probably haven’t tried the best lechon in Cebu City yet. What I can do say is that I’ve tried Carcar’s version on its public market years back. And for me, it still is the best lechon I’ve ever had.
CEBU | At the Premiere Citi Suites Cebu, a Weekend Quickie
[HOTELS & RESORTS] Thursday, September 21, 2017There really wasn’t any particular reason why we booked an immediate flight to Cebu City. There was no long weekend. There weren’t any festivals happening. No one was celebrating any birthday that we have to attend in. There wasn’t anything. Together with a few friends visiting from Singapore and Australia, we just felt like going there. No plans. No itineraries. No nothing. Just us, and a couple of days’ worth of clothes.
Everything happened fast. Too fast. After a drunken debauchery of a weekend in Boracay with the same gang. We felt we needed to bring our mess to the Queen City of the South. After hurried flight bookings and rebookings, and a quick scan for the cheapest, but still decent, hotel in Cebu. We’re all set.
Three of us touched down at the Mactan International Airport just before the clock struck twelve midnight, while another went earlier. Our last two companions came the morning after; the hastily drawn circle, completed.
The sea, in all its emerald glory, opened the ninth hour of our stay on Mactan island. The sun was in full blast, with only a few puffs of cloud to contend with. And the water, oh my goodness, the water. It was indescribably clear and vivid, mercurial even! I wanted to jump in, but my doctor’s advice regarding my eardrums stopped me from doing so.
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CEBU FROM THE PLANE WINDOW |
Cebu became our jump-off point for our two-month Asean Summer Loop tour after being forced to, due to lack of flights from Manila to Kuala Lumpur via the AirAsia Asean Pass. So there was our plane, landing at Lapu Lapu City’s tarmac close to midnight.
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The invite to Iligan City’s Waterfalling Adventure 1.0 that occurs alongside with the city’s Diyandi Festival came just a month before its appointed date. There was no time to book a sale flight so I resorted to finding the cheapest airfare to Cebu via Tigerair Philippines and leapfrogging to Iligan City through a RORO ferry.
►CHECK OUT: CEBU TRAVEL GUIDE
The early part of the my day was spent checking Mactan Island; eating at Zubuchon Mactan, walking through Mactan Shrine, and ferrying all the way to the Olango Wildlife Sanctuary. I never thought traffic jams occur in Cebu City and I arrived at its pier with only a few minutes to spare.
Hefting a ton worth of camera equipment and a week’s worth of clothes while traveling is a big pain in the back. The Cebu to Iligan ferry is still hours away and to while away the time while in Cebu, I decided to visit the Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary off the eastern coast of Lapu-Lapu City. Without a choice, I hauled my gigantic backpack along for the ride.
►BOOK TRANSPORTATION FROM CEBU TO ILIGAN
Getting to Olango Island is fairly easy, but having a mammoth bag demanded quite a bit out of me. Coming from the Mactan Shrine, I boarded a jeep (₱8.00) that brought me to Movenpick Resort where the outrigger boats that transfer passengers to Olango Island (₱15.00) is located.
CEBU | Mactan’s Lapu-Lapu Shrine ~ History, Mangroves, And One-Armed Crabs
[TRAVELS] Friday, September 20, 2013Lapu-Lapu’s twenty-foot bronze statue rise gracefully above the gumamela thicket circling Cebu’s famous shrine like the hero that Filipinos revere him to be. It was the first day of my jaunt to Iligan City through Cebu and I thought about visiting a few of the city’s landmarks before continuing my journey to Mindanao that night.
►SEE: ILIGAN TRAVEL GUIDE
The Lapu-Lapu Shrine at Lapu-Lapu City is erected to commemorate the famous 1521 Battle of Mactan where Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan is slain by the island’s chieftain, Datu Lapu-Lapu. The shrine is erected along the coastal area of Punta Engaño where the actual conflict is believed to have occurred.
A lip-smacking, skin-crackling, heart attack-inducing bite of crispy lechon skin is what I craved for the second time I touched down in Cebu. I remember the first time I set foot in the city some months before this trip and not being able to have a taste of what Anthony Bourdain called the best pig ever. Yes, I’m talking about Zubuchon.
Iligan City is actually where I was heading to, it just so happened that a ticket to CDO costs so much. Checking the airline deals online, I found bookings to Cebu via Tigerair Philippines to be the cheapest. So book for Cebu I did. Well, it was also in part due to lechons, I have to admit.
►SEE: ILIGAN TRAVEL GUIDE
I really didn’t plan to go off and cross the three main islands of the Philippines. It just so happened that I got an invite for a Mindanao festival and my other travel plans for the month of June 2012 just seamlessly volted in together. In the end, I ventured from one of the northernmost province of Luzon, visited the heart of Visayas and landed on the upper lands of Mindanao. Everything-everything in sixteen awesome days without boarding a single airplane.
CEBU | Swimming with Dried Fishes at Cebu City’s Taboan Market
[TRAVELS] Wednesday, December 26, 2012Done with Cebu City’s historical tour, the next and final destination on our list was the Taboan Public Market. We prepared to don our snorkels, we were about to dive with the fishes, dried danggit fishes that is.
It’s quite tricky locating the place via jeepney, but we managed to find it in one go. But for the not-so-adventurous ones out there, I recommend taking a cab instead as we have to walk, ask and literally use our nose to locate the famous danggit market.
I distinctly recall a Yoyoy Villame tune playing every week over our house when I was a kid as I walked the few meters from the Sto. Niño Minor Basilica to Cebu’s iconic Magellan’s Cross.
When Magellan landed in Cebu City, Rajah Humabon met him, they were very happy
All people were baptized and built the church of Christ, And that's the beginning of our Catholic life
Comedic annotations aside, mention Cebu to anyone and the first probable thought balloon that would pop over their heads is the Cross of Magellan—besides lechon, that is, for food crazy persons like me haha. The iconic cross has been the link to our country’s fanatic devotion to the Catholic faith and has been standing on the same grounds where it has been erected by the first chronicled Europeans who stepped into our country 491 years ago.
CEBU | The 16th Century Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño of Cebu City
[ARCHITECTURE] Monday, December 24, 2012Passing throngs of humanity through the streets of Cebu City, I caught a glimpse of my query; the faded white bell tower of the Minor Basilica of Sto. Niño. My pulse beat faster and my strides quickened. I was about to enter the oldest church (in terms of lineage) in the Philippines. The sky was the same grey hue that blanketed the city’s Metropolitan Cathedral which was just a few minutes’ walk from the Sto. Niño church. Vendors selling candles walked along the plaza, mingling with the hundreds of tourist flocking the most famous church in the island.
It’s considered a miracle that Cebu City’s 104-year old church is standing in front of me at all. Various construction starts and stops have plagued this cathedral since its inception more than three hundred years ago. And now with a few hours of free time before our flight back to Manila, I have my chance to explore one of the oldest houses of worship in the Queen City of the South.
Traveling by boat and bus for hours all the way from the northern tip to the heart of Cebu can make one’s stomach growl with hunger. And when in Cebu the first thing that will pop into one’s head or more appropriately, one’s tummy, is that succulent meaty crunchy Pinoy fiesta favorite, lechon! According to the worldwideweb, the best of these can be found within the city at CnT Lechon.
Wasting no time, we immediately deposited our backpacks inside SM Cebu’s baggage counter and briskly walked through the searing noontime sun, crossed the highway in front of the mall and looked for that yellow building with the CnT signboard.
My hammock was lazily swinging about as the soft sun escaped through the leaves overhead and filtered through the thatch roof of Aabana’s large viewing deck. Getting up was a chore but Malapascua Island’s white sand beach was beckoning me for an afternoon stroll.
Like most places in the Philippines, the island got its name from the Spanish conquerors of yore. It was said that a group of Spaniards once got marooned in the island during Christmas Eve. Irked by the accident, they dubbed the island as Mala Pascua, which translated means Bad Easter. Even though the real name of the island is Logon, the name stuck like a seven-year bad luck.
Malapascua is famous for two things; white sand beaches and thresher sharks. From above, one can see that the whole island is completely surrounded by a strip of white sandy shoreline. The more popular of these is the Bounty Beach on the south side where numerous resorts and restaurants have made their stakes along the banks.
Foreign tourists often flock the island not for the beach though but for the sharks, thresher sharks. These long-tailed super predators are regularly sighted along Monad Shoal which is about twenty minutes away by boat from Malapascua. Local dive shops are often busy with activities during the day, catering to more adventurous explorers wanting to experience swimming with these graceful predators.
To be honest, I enjoyed swimming more along the beach at Bantigue Cove than at Bounty Beach. The sand is equally fine at both beach but a large part of Bounty Beach’s underwater is densely populated by sea grass, which makes swimming, especially on low tide, very uncomfortable.
The sky started warming up as I reached the far end of the beach. A hut at a rock outcrop indicated the happy hour for beer chuggers; for photographers though, the golden hour is our happy hour. I crossed over to Logon Beach and immediately found my hour.
Small wooden boats lazily bob along the serene shore of the cove as waves softly slap the cream-colored sand of the beach. A few fisherfolks on their way seawards looking for dinner were framed by puffs of yellowish clouds and the silhouette of the far-off Chocolate Island.
The clouds parted and the sun broke. The sky and waters of Malapascua were painted in warm yellows and tinge of oranges. God rays poured down into the horizon, the locals seemingly unaware of the majesty of the scene rolling before my very eyes. I suppose these are nothing but everyday occurrence to the people of Malapascua, I envy the people of this island.
Evening descended and a cool blue darkness enveloped the island. The restaurants fronting the beach switched on their lights and transformed the shoreline of the island into an outdoor bar. Torches were staked and soft music wafted in and out of the coconuts lining the beach.
I have seen a similar scene in Boracay but I like how intimate Malapascua’s night life is compared to the jungle parties of Boracay. There are hardly any crowd here and there is no partying going on, the atmosphere is laid back and still very beach-like.
The night soon got darker and I proceeded homeward. Along the way I spotted a couple of hammocks swinging just as lazily as the hammock I abandoned a few hour before I took a walk along the shores of Malapascua. I thought to myself, what’s a couple minutes more of lounging around before going back to the resort. Hurrying is a foreign word and relaxation is the common word at Cebu’s Malapascua Island.
Bounty Beach Malapascua Island
Address: Bounty Beach, Brgy. Logon, Malapascua Island, Daanbantayan, Cebu
Entrance Fee: None
GPS Coordinates: 11.3302,124.121313
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here
Our bare feet were buried under the soft white sand of Malapascua Island. Sitting on fluffy beanies near the shore, we were telling stories about nothing while the sea breeze was whipping like crazy. Warm globes of lights floated overhead, dancing with the leaves and casting everything into oranges. Dinner was gonna be a beachfront affair at Ocean Vida Restaurant.
On a tight budget, we brought canned food with us during the trip and were satisfied to have those as lunch and dinner. But it was our last night on the island and we wanted something grander than corned beef hash. Passing through the numerous restaurants fronting Bounty Beach, we were attracted by the warm fuzzy lights of Ocean Vida’s restaurant like helpless moths to a fiery flame.
One of the things I really look forward to when going to a remote island like Malapascua is the place’s island hopping tours. I love visiting out of the way coves and diving below the surface to underwater gardens.
Malapascua offers such adventure either through the resorts one is staying in or via the numerous dive shops that can be found along the beach front. We got ours from a nearby sari-sari store where I usually buy snacks and what-nots, it turns out that the owner’s husband works in one of the larger dive shop in the island and has a boat of his own. We sealed the deal at Php500.00 (2pax inclusive of snorkels, masks and vests) and off we went.
It was raining intermittently the past few days and we were so lucky for having clear skies the day we chose to tour around the island. There was a slight sea breeze with a few wisps of clouds sailing just above the horizon. A perfect day to go around.
Our boat calmly chugged along across the blue-green waters surrounding Malapascua, our boatman pointing out interesting houses and resorts dotting the shoreline. Twenty minutes later and we were oohhing and aahhing at the fine stretch of white sand covering the shore of a cove. Our first destination of the day; Bantigue Cove.
Dark coral stones lush with island shrubs and trees towers over a side of the beach. The green cover provides a nice shade to the otherwise blinding heat of the sun. The long stretch of sand at Bantigue is very very fine and very very white. I almost wished we had stayed to a resort closer to this paradise.
The water sparkles towards the blue horizon. I can see a few dark spots farther away from the shore, indications of marine life. After doing the requisite above water photos, I ran and dove down; snorkel and mask on my face, underwater camera in my hand.
Bands of light shimmered below the green water and snaked across the undulating white sand below the island. Small fishes roved across the streaming sunlight and starfishes lazily lay their five arms across patches of green areas. Schools of small Striped Catfishes moved across the algae-ridden parts of the seabed, taking strength in numbers. Everything was paradise except for the plastics that litter the shallower parts of the bed.
I wish we could have spent an hour or two more at this spot but we have to move. Our second destination was the shipwreck. Above the water one can see the Lighthouse near Guimbitayan. One can opt to access the tower for a panoramic 360-degree view of Malapascua.
But I’m really not that interested in that, what I want to see is what’s below our boat. So I don my mask, turned on my camera and jumped. Air bubbles exploded around me as I plunged into the depths of the clear blue waters. A basketball-sized jellyfish flapped its body and greeted me, I said a brief hi in return and promptly swam away from the massive creature.
The ribs of the sunken World War II Japanese ship came into view. Said to be a transport vessel, it was shipping in a supply of cement for gun batteries in the island when it was bombed. The ship was a good twent to thirty feet below from the surface. And like a spine of a fossilized dinosaur, it simply lay across the seabed, a giant now encased in organic sea life. Corals have now attached themselves into its rusting metal body and fishes made the nooks of its belly as their homes.
The wreck used to be larger than what we were seeing now. Our boatman relates how the locals have salvaged parts of the ship for scraps ‘til only the skeletons of the once mighty ship are left. Still, there are still parts of the vessel that stretches almost to the surface, seemingly reaching for the air that it once breathed.
Snorkeling around the wreck whetted by appetite for more underwater action and I got my wish on our next and last stop, a coral garden near an islet. Circling a group of rock outcrops known to the locals as Dakit Dakit Islands. Our boat anchored down in the middle of the sea and without ado, I dove down.
Soft corals waved at me from below and fished stared and quickly scrammed as I started my descent. It is a garden down below with flower-like blooms, veined ferns, hardened shrubs and massive tables of corals covering the ground. The ever present brains pop in and out across the land while colorful fishes in all shapes and sizes glide along.
I swam towards more corals but my will was not as strong as the current. It easily led me on its own course and since I really cannot do anything about it, I stopped struggling and let it flow. It was an easier way to check out the teeming water life below, but like a strict tour guide, it doesn’t allow side trips and lingering on an area too much.
I bid adieu to a platoon of Sergeant Majors swimming above a table of corals and broke the surface. I saw our boat anchored quite a distance away and waved to be rescued from paradise. Although I still wanted to see more, the current was just too strong for my unathletic limbs. It’s goodbye paradise; for now.
Island Hopping at Malapascua
Address: Malapascua Island, Daanbantayan, Cebu
Rates: Usually Php200.00 to Php250.00 per person depending on the number of persons
GPS Coordinates: 11.3302,124.121313
View Location on Google Maps: Click Here