Siquijor is an island province located at the Central Visayas Region of the Philippines. It is composed of six towns; Enrique Villanueva, Larena, Lazi, Maria, San Juan and Siquijor. The island is bordered on the northwest by Cebu and Negros islands, on the northeast by Bohol, and on the south by the northern Mindanao provinces of Misamis Occidental (Dapitan) and Zamboanga del Norte (Dipolog).

Often dubbed as, the Isla del Fuego (the island of fire) due to the glow it gives off during sundown as multitude of fireflies gather on the molave trees off the island, it is a place of mystery and mysticism especially for older generations who believes in witchcraft and sorcery. And indeed, the said practice is still being observed in Siquijor, albeit on a less prevalent scale as it was before. I find that most people would look strangely on you if you mention that you’re traveling to Siquijor, the island having its reputation with the black arts, but once you get pass that—and it is really not a problem when on the island itself—the place would reward you with amazing tourist spots such as pristine beaches, amazing waterfalls, lush hiking trails, centuries old stone churches, and yes, even the sweetest people.

During my first trip to Siquijor, I’ve wanted to visit a Guiwanon mangrove park after reading about it from Ironwulf’s blog. Back then, I haven’t been to the Kalibo Mangrove Eco-Park, which was probably one of the most extensive of this type of parks, so I was really interested to go—wooden planks elevated several feet from the ground, gnarly trees and all. It was just unfortunate that we were unable to check it out due to time constraints.

A PROFUSION OF BRANCHES AND LEAVES

After four years of traveling around the country and outside of it, I’ve finally seen my share of mangrove parks, but still, I was still longing to see Siquijor’s own mangrove forest, a place that has long piqued my curiosity. And so on this recent trip, during our last few hours on the island, our guide at last delivered us to the gates of Guiwanon Spring Park.

We were at the town of Enrique Villanueva, it was almost evening and we still didn’t have a place to stay. San Juan, with its famous Tubod Beach, may be the most popular beach town in Siquijor but we wanted to explore the province’s other locales. Enrique Villanueva fitted the bill, we wanted a quiet place where we could have the beach all to ourselves, plus we were told that there’s a marine sanctuary near the area. We were sold, but first, we needed to find an affordable lodging.

SEASIDE GARDEN RESORT & COTTAGES FAN ROOM IN CAMOGAO, SIQUIJOR

The sun had finally set when we settled for the Seaside Garden Resort & Cottages. Located at Barangay Camogao, it offers a couple of rooms clad in sawali—the walls are made of concrete though, so there’s no problem with privacy. We’ve initially talked with the owner of the place, but passed off since we found their price a bit too high. Well, PHP800.00 per night for a fan room isn’t really expensive, but we’re cheapskates like that, lol. We eventually gave in, finding no other suitable place to bed in for the night.

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We were at the tail-end of our whole-day Siquijor island tour. From the Beach Port of Siquijor, to Lugnason Falls, the famous Siquijor balete tree, Cambugahay Falls, Kagusuan Beach, and finally, Salagdoong Beach; we’ve been to places we’ve visited before and to new ones. And there’s definitely nothing more rewarding after such a journey than a relaxing coffee break (or beer, perhaps?) right by the beach as the sun sets far off into the horizon.

THE OLDEST HOUSE IN SIQUIJOR LOOKS READY TO FALL DOWN

Those thoughts were running on our mind as Dennis, our guide, revved his tricycle along the empty highways of Enrique Villanueva. After passing through the now crumbling Cang-isok House, the oldest of its kind in Siquijor, we asked him to slow down a bit, we knew exactly where to end our Siquijoran adventure.

He counted; one, two, jump! On his back, he flew thirty five feet into the air, arms outstretched, his shout trailing behind as his long hair whipped about. The air swooshed against his scraggly beard and at the last moment, he turned, diving perfectly into the aquamarine waters below, plunging deep. And with a gasp of air, he reemerged, with a triumphant laugh.

Watching from the concrete platform from the cliff area of Salagdoong Beach, I wished mightily that I could jump too. My mind was sure I can do it, but my body resisted, my hand still painfully swollen after a minor accident at Cambugahay Falls.

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“Can you show us a different beach this time around?” I asked our Siquijor guide, Dennis, as our tricycle sped through the deserted highway loop around the island. We’ve been to a few of the famous beaches around Siquijor; Tubod Beach and Salagdoong Beach, particularly, but we knew this island still has a few more sandy secrets right up its mystical sleeve.

THE UNENDING TREE TUNNEL TO KAGUSUAN BEACH

From the highway circumnavigating Siquijor, we turned a bend from Barangay Minalulan in the town of Maria and crossed over to barangay Lilo-An. The road was narrow, set on both sides by lush trees bending right at the top, forming a sort of leafy cathedral ceiling for us. It might be the desertedness of the path but it seemed the road wasn't going to end.

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Down some hundred steps from Lazi’s main road is a scenery as magical as Siquijor’s mystical reputation. The afternoon was steadily progressing on as we made our slow way down on stone steps leading to Siquijor’s famous three-tiered Cambugahay Falls. The treads were evenly made with natural stones, probably procured from the river that feeds the waterfall. The falls cascade all the way from a small rainforest above the mountains, some freshwater springs, and watersheds.

UNEVEN STONE STEPS TO CAMBUGAHAY FALLS

A hint of light green waters, reminiscent of Palawan’s famed Kayangan Lake, springs into view in between the foliage as we made our ever downwards progress. And in less than five minutes, we were holding on to our jaws, lest it fall all the way downstream with the green gushing waters of Cambugahay Falls.

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The minutes quickly passed as our tricycle roared off into the humid streets of Siquijor. It was already two in the afternoon, and again, we disembarked and found ourselves staring right into a gnarly body of a huge centuries old Balete tree growing at the end of a shallow swimming pool.

VINES STRAGGLING DOWN THE SIQUIJOR BALETE TREE

The tree is said to be around 400 to 500 years old, depending on who you ask, and is definitely the biggest of its kind on the island. Balete or banyan trees are usually parasitic in nature, creeping up on unsuspecting healthy trees and wrapping itself around it until the host finally dies. This leaves a hollow core in the middle where one can enter if it becomes big enough.

► SEE: SIQUJOR TRAVEL GUIDE