VIGAN TRAVEL GUIDE | Itinerary + Budget + Map [UPDATED 2022]
[TRAVELGUIDE] Wednesday, April 06, 2022
Vigan is a city located on the northwestern coast of Luzon in the Philippines. It is the capital of the Ilocos Sur province and the only UNESCO World Heritage City in the country. Recently, it won as one of the New Seven Wonders Cities of the World.
The main draw of Vigan City are its well-preserved Bahay na Bato structures located at the Meztizo District, its historical core. Currently, there are 187 listed ancestral houses in town. Besides this, it also boasts of beautiful colonial churches, a plaza that comes alive with a fountain show at night, a free-roaming zoo and numerous historical museums.
The city’s cuisine is also quite interesting and numerous restaurants around the area makes it readily accessible to visitors.
There is no denying the popularity of Vigan City for the typical tourist and even veteran travelers. And for those planning to visit it anytime soon, here’s an intensive travel guide, complete with a 2-day and 3-day sample itinerary for a DIY tour of the Vigan City.
Located in the province of Pangasinan, the town of Bolinao is one of the perfect places to spend a quick weekend by the beach. Situated about six hours away by bus from Manila, a midnight ride from Cubao can easily transport tourists from the bustle of the metro to a relaxing seaside getaway. Besides its sprawl of golden beaches and aquamarine waters, it boasts of three easy to explore caves with natural pools within its caverns, three gorgeous waterfalls, unique rock formations along its coasts and the second tallest American Era lighthouse in the Philippines.
The sun was quickly retreating down horizon as we alighted from our van. I hurried towards Patar White Beach, Bolinao’s renowned public beach, my feet dragging on its golden sand. I plodded on, knowing full well that the window for the day’s most beautiful light would soon come to pass.
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| PATAR WHITE BEACH DURING WEEKDAYS |
Patar White Beach’s cream-colored sand, sidely lit by the sinking sun, mimicked the gentle lapping waves of the shore. I took my sandals off and my toes promptly sank beneath the soft yellow granules. I set up my gear, surveyed the seemingly endless beach and saw that besides the locals enjoying the sunset, we were almost the only tourist in the area.
A chasm dropped beneath the shallow seabed, its opening, an angry mouth overgrown with golden seaweeds. It was frothing. Alive. The fuming sea filled it one moment, the rift, swallowing it the next; a furious repetition that hypnotizes. I stood at its edge, watching it dance, when a particularly massive wave slammed the dinosaur-like coral rock just behind it. It broke my reverie, remembering I was towing a camera with me.
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| TREASURES OF BOLINAO LOBBY |
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| AN OVERVIEW OF THE RESORT FROM THE MAIN HOUSE ROOF TOP |
It was almost three years since our last visit to Bolinao, a place where lasting friendships has been kindled. We were definitely excited when an invite to revisit it presented itself. We boarded a bus from Cubao one afternoon and arrived at Bolinao’s Poblacion close to midnight.
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| THE NEARBY PATAR WHITE BEACH |
Like the last, we’re staying along the town’s famous Patar White Beach, but this time, we’re sleeping on a more posh location, the Treasures of Bolinao Beach Resort. It became our home for two nights in Patar, and what a home it turned out to be.
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| OUR ROOM FOR TWO NIGHTS |
We were billeted at their Standard Room in their New Villa Building. The room is minimally decorated with framed black and white photographs, a couple of plush chairs and a foldable sofa bed. Its two queen-sized beds were good enough for four, but since we were only two, it was really quite spacious.
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| STANDARD ROOM AT THE NEW VILLA BUILDING |
The toilet and bath is adequate enough (has hot shower, no bidet though) and the room has a veranda overlooking the central drive which has a mini version of the Bolinao Lighthouse. This was where we downed our bottles of sake before finally going to bed.
It wasn’t really until the next morning that we got to see what this resort has to offer.
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| AFTERNOON STROLL AT THE PATAR WHITE BEACH |
Treasures of Bolinao sprawls on acres of land right in front of the beach. On its back stands the iconic Bolinao Lighthouse, on its left, Patar’s White Beach is accessible directly from the resort, and the strange Patar Rock Formations, unique to the area, guard its right flank. Hands down, this resort has the best location in all of Patar.
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| THE MAHARLIKA BUILDING |
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| INFINITY POOL OVERLOOKING THE WEST PHILIPPINE SEA |
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| SOAKING IN THE SUN |
It is the resort that started the tourism boom in Patar several years back. From a single structure, it has now expanded into six resort buildings totaling the number of rooms to sixty five. The latest building, dubbed as the Main House, is now being readied to open right before the summer starts. Treasures of Bolinao has two pools, one inside the grounds and the other, an infinity pool over looking the West Philippine Sea.
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| WAS SURPRISED TO SEE A SURFER AT PATAR |
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| ONE OF THE MANY OPEN CABANAS AT THE RESORT |
We got a glimpse of these while waiting for our complimentary silog breakfast to be served at their restaurant’s al fresco tables. We were watching a lone surfer, out breaking the waves, as our first meal of the day arrived, tapsilog for C and the superb Alaminos garlic longganisa—also paired with fried rice and egg—for me.
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| SWIMMING ON THE WATERS IN FRONT OF THE RESORT |
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| THERE’S A GOOD SNORKELING SITE AT THE PATAR WHITE BEACH, BUT THERE’S ALSO ONE NEARBY |
Quickly finishing everything off, we took a walk at the Patar White Beach, reminiscing the first time we visited the place, before running towards the water to swim and snorkel. The waters on the left side of the resort, protected by a natural surf break, was very calm and was quite good for wading. Part of it has a sandy bottom, with its fringes filled with rocky corals populated by colorful little fishes. It isn’t as deep as those at the far end of the White Beach, with maximum depth at around four feet. Very safe for kids, but still deep enough for a relaxing swim.
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| HYPNOTIZED BY THE WAVES HITTING THE ROCK FORMATIONS |
There were quite a few weekenders walking along the shallow midpart of the waters, we followed suit. Since the tide was at its lowest, the sea was just about shin deep. We watched as some kids played dangerously near the edge of the seabed that forms the surf break, waiting for the waters to explode as it slams into the rock platform.
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| THE MINI BEACH AND ROCK FORMATIONS AT THE RIGHT FLANK OF THE RESORT |
A blowhole sprayed seawater as we passed, to the shrieks of kids near it, and a massive wave several meters away from the farthest edge almost made me tumble. This is a wild place. Eventually, after our measured steps, we reached the small cove at the right side of the resort. The water was also very shallow, but there were a couple of natural pools or bath tubs one can soak in.
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| AIR-CONDITIONED RESTAURANT AREA |
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| SHRIMP AMPALAYA, SURPRISINGLY GOOD |
Lunch came just right on time, crispy nilasing na hipon (fried battered shrimp marinated in wine), shrimp sautéed in ampalaya (bitter gourd) and bowls of sinigang na tahong (mussels in sour soup). Everything was quite good.
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| THE RESTAURANT SERVES BOTH FILIPINO AND WESTERN DISHES |
An advice for those ordering at the restaurant, make sure to place it in advance, like hours before your actual meal, since their current kitchen staff are a bit limited and can be swamped with orders during peak hours.
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| PATAR BEACH FACES THE WEST |
On one of the open bungalows extending towards the sea, we spent the rest of the afternoon, sipping on glasses of very cold beer while watching beach goers cross the shallow sea towards the surf breaks and rock formations. The setting sun signaled our final shot.
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| SUNSET AT TREASURE OF BOLINAO’S SIGNATURE BRIDGE |
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| MESMERIZED BY THE WAVES HITTING THE ROCK FORMATIONS |
We scampered over Treasure of Bolinao’s iconic white bridge to watch and photograph the golden hour, the sun, blazing fully, bathing the waters in fiery oranges, before retiring down the horizon; the sea rising and breaking through to the shore in massive waves.
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| A PERFECT SUNSET AT THE TREASURES OF BOLINAO |
Internet signal is quite hard while in Patar. The resort has wi-fi at its lobby, but it is understandable slow. We were advised by one of their friendly staff that their signal is much stronger at the roof deck of the new building. And so, to the rooftop we went.
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| TWILIGHT AT THE TREASURES OF BOLINAO |
Indeed, notifications started to flood our phone as soon as we stepped on the deck. We were quite busy, checking e-mails, posting on Instagram and Facebook, that we almost didn’t notice the moon rising over the hill where Bolinao Lighthouse stood.
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| MOONRISE AT THE BOLINAO LIGHTHOUSE |
It was a full moon, and its proximity to the lighthouse cannot be more perfect. I’ve never seen Bolinao’s landmark in such a magical way. And I probably wouldn’t have witnessed this rare moment anywhere else, a final gem to cap our first day in Patar. Treasures of Bolinao, indeed.
~ OUR GRATITUDE TO TREASURES OF BOLINAO FOR INVITING US FOR A PATAR WEEKEND GETAWAY
Treasures of Bolinao
Address: Brgy. Patar, Bolinao, Pangasinan
Contact Number: (075) 696-3266 | (02) 413-4914
(0908) 853-0000
Email: info@treasuresofbolinao.com
Room Rates | Daytour Rates: PHP385.00 adult,
PHP280.00 kids, PHP4,000.00 cottage
Facebook | Instagram | Twitter
GPS Coordinates Map: 16.306095, 119.780731
LA UNION | Thunderbird Resorts Poro Point Luxury Getaway
[HOTELS & RESORTS] Saturday, August 15, 2015
It was the perfect day to be at La Union’s premier luxury resort. The sun was blazing hot, the sky—cobalt blue with a few wisps of clouds floating lazily by. And the sea—with its deep aquamarine color—reflecting the heavens above. A peek from our balcony and a construct of white concrete blocks topped by blue domes greeted me. I took everything in and breathed a sigh of contentment, I can’t believe I’m actually here at Thunderbird Resorts Poro Point.
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| THE ICONIC THUNDERBIRD LA UNION DOME PAINTING |
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| NOTHING BUT WHITES AND BLUES |
This is actually my second time here. Although my first visit was only a brief one and on an evening too, I can’t help but be impressed by the resort even then. I wished then that we could’ve stayed the night then and enjoyed its five-star amenities, but we were already booked at Kahuna Beach Resort. It simply wasn’t meant to be.
Strolling down Vigan’s Calle Crisologo one overcast afternoon, my ears glued to Eraserheads’ Wala, a horse-drawn carriage suddenly swept past me. The horse’s hooves click-clacked as it sped by. And for a moment, I felt it displace space—warping it like Doc’s shiny DeLorean. Shifting from the present to the past, from the past to the future. For an instant, I felt somewhat dislocated. Did time just stood still? Am I still at present or am I at some point in the past?
Beh. Enough of that time travel nonsense. Calle Crisologo in Vigan City can stand on its own merit without the need to parallel it with time travel and such baloney.
The reason for my first trip to Vigan City some years back was because of work suspension—too much time on flickr, my boss told me. I have a bit of cash, I was itching to road test a new camera lens, and I haven’t been to Ilocos Sur. So I said to myself, why not Vigan?
And why not, indeed?
►EXPLORE: VIGAN TRAVEL GUIDE
Barefoot, a cup of coffee on hand, I glided past a midsized replica of Juan Luna’s Spoliarium to have my caffeine fix at a veranda somewhere in Vigan City. Earlier, I passed by masterpieces from BenCab and Amorsolo; not replicas, but originals. And yeah, it also took me a while to get my eyes off a supposed Juan Luna original painting.
Welcome to Hotel Luna.
The original plan was to get back home after touring the only hotel slash museum of its kind outside Metro Manila. We’ve been passing by Hotel Luna every single day we were in Vigan City on our way to Calle Crisologo, but for one reason or another, we always fail to visit its halls.
On our supposed last day in the city, we made it a point to finally enter its door. And our jaws dropped to the floor.
►EXPLORE: VIGAN TRAVEL GUIDE
ILOCOS SUR | Santa Maria Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
[ARCHITECTURE] Thursday, September 25, 2014
What does UNESCO mean anyway? J asked as we were rumbling through the scenic roadways towards the town of Santa Maria—our goal, to visit the UNESCO-stamped Santa Maria Church. Surprisingly, none of us knew the answer. We knew that it is one of the governing bodies throughout the world that says which site is of world heritage quality, sort of like the Oscars of the tourism world, but we have no idea what the acronym stands for.
I’ve always wanted to visit the Santa Maria Church in Ilocos Sur, but I remember reading that it’s a bit out of the way from the usual Ilocos tourist places. Without a car to get around, visiting it usually took a backseat towards the more popular spots in the region, like say, Calle Crisologo.
But this time, with the help of Hotel Felicidad Vigan, we were provided with a van and was given free reign on where to go. Santa Maria Church was the first thing that popped in my head. At long last!
En route to the northern provinces of the Philippines, I almost always wake up just before the bus I’m riding crosses the Abra River. From the newer Banaoang Bridge, I look out the window and gaze at the skeletal structure of the defunct Quirino Bridge parallel to it. And almost always, the bus would zoom off the bridge without me being able to take even a single shot or let alone take my camera out from my bag.
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| ABRA RIVER UP CLOSE |
The chance finally came for me to photograph the twin bridge that connects the town of Santa and Bantay in Ilocos Sur as I revisited Vigan City a month ago. Aboard a van full of media peeps, we traversed the rain-slicked roads to Barangay Banaoang and alighted just before the twin bridges.
But we were there, not really to take photos of the massive structures, but to cross it using a zip line.
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ILOCOS SUR | Bantay Church, its Bell Tower, and FPJ's Ang Panday
[ARCHITECTURE] Tuesday, September 23, 2014
It’s all still a bit hazy to me, but I somehow recall how a fireball blazed into the sky and fell at the hill where an old tower stood. The meteor was taken by a stooped old man and was eventually forged into a sword, the balaraw. That sword was said to grow long by thrusting into the ground.
Ang Panday, a movie from my childhood, was more than a movie for me back then. And now, decades later, I am still unable to believe that I’m standing on the ground where that ball of fire struck.
But erase all that. After doing a bit of research, I stumbled upon a full movie of Ang Panday on YouTube. I started to watch it, waiting for the scene with the bell tower. Soon, I found that my memory served me wrong. The meteor didn’t land at the tower. Rather, a book was found there by Tata Temyong, buried under a tree, after an earthquake shook the ground.
The hunt for Tuguegarao’s iconic pancit batil patong continues even as we travel. This time, while in Vigan City, we quickly googled through the interweb, looking for traces of this noodle dish near the the area. Since we were in the northern territories of the Philippines, we thought that the chances of a panciteria selling our favorite pancit would be quite high. Right?
Our web search turned up zero results.
It wasn’t until our second to the last day of exploring Vigan when we chanced upon a security guy from Hotel Luna, Sir Medrano we called him. After accidentally finding out that he hails from Cagayan Valley, we immediately asked if he knows a panciteria selling pancit batil patong in Vigan City.
Well, not exactly in Vigan, he says, but I know one near Bantay Church, which in all practicality is almost part of the city.
That same afternoon, on foot, we traversed the Meztizo River and went out of Vigan City. We desperately wanted a plate of pancit batil patong.
A bamboo pole, about two meters long, was served on our table. Our waiter opened the lid and revealed what’s inside. Pinakbet. My least favorite food of all time.
Oh man. Dining at a place called Pinakbet Farm, I should’ve expected this. Tsk.
Coming from the abel loom weaving in Caoayan, a town which used to be part of Vigan City, we dropped by Pinakbet Farm—a small restaurant overlooking one of the tributaries of Meztizo River. Tables and benches are neatly arranged on a pavilion-type open-aired setting. Wood dominates the theme of the restaurant—and with the breeze wafting in, it makes for a very rustic and provincial ambience.
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Off the southern part of Vigan City lies the town of Caoayan. Here, we witnessed how locals turn colorful strands of cloth into something beautiful. Painstakingly, they weave these by hand, turning simple yarns into something intricately beautiful—an abel, Ilocos province’s traditional woven product.
Every Ilocano worth his salt has an abel somewhere in his house; the fabric being an intrinsic part of their lives. From birth, they are wrapped in abel blanket. During their weddings, they wear dresses made from abel. Even in death, they are again wrapped in a blanket made of the same material.
